Archive for the ‘news’ category

The Hubers’ movie – Am Limit


The film was directed by Pepe Danquart and will become available on DVDs this month. I better start dusting off my German.


The Hubers are on fire


Alex and Thomas HuberAlex and Thomas Huber broke the 5-year-old speed record on the fabled line on El Capitan – The Nose. They were faster than Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine by mere 20 seconds (!) and the new record ascent time was set to 2:48:35. They were plagued by Thomas dropping one aider on the Great Roof pitch who had to finish the route with the remaining aider in an atypical awkward style.

However, the Hubers still had more shots left. Four days later, on October 8th, the brothers were on The Nose again, to firm up the record and quiet all whiners. This time everything went fine until the Harding bolt ladder. Alex missed putting his foot into an aider and was left hanging on the sling by one arm only with an 80-foot slack running from his harness all the way to the belay. Yikes! When they finally touched the El Cap tree on the top, the clock showed – 2:45:45! Breaking their own record, they brought their 3-year-long efforts on the Nose to a wonderful finale. Well done.

Read more about their first and second record-breaking ascent.


Back from Europe


Alex Huber redpointing Pan AromaAfter spending two wonderful weeks in Europe (not only by scaling rocks) I am back on Long Island, a place specially designed to be boring. Sorting through the unread news in my feed reader has been a challenge. A lot of things happened in the climbing world while I stayed overseas, here are few highlights that caught my attention: (more…)

A New Guidebook for The Red Coming Up


Ray Ellington’s guidebook to the Red River Gorge will soon see its second edition. The updated book should appear on September 28, 2007. It is available for pre-order.

Those who had the pleasure to use the old book know that it’s a comprehensive and well composed piece with beautiful pictures and highly amusing route descriptions. There is an online guidebook too, but I think the hard copy is well worthy the money.

The Red River Gorge in eastern Kentucky is one of the best rock-climbing areas in the world. Its solid well-featured sandstone makes for steep, spectacular climbing, with an almost equal mix of sport and traditionally protected pitches. This revised and updated second edition describes over 1600 climbs, including over 300 previously undocumented pitches in Muir Valley and the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve.