Archive for the ‘climbing tutorials’ category

Pack Your Rope Like an Expert

7/31/2007

Came upon this amusing instructional video of how to tie climbing rope to your back:

I love packing my rope this way, however, there is a couple of things to point out:

  • Packing the rope with both rope ends in one hand (a.k.a. double Butterfly Coil), is faster but tangles the rope easily. Flaking the rope out has to be done cleverly. Put the rope on the ground so that both ends are on the top. Best to flake it twice – first time to undo the coils, second time to separate the two strands of rope.
  • The rope should be put as high on the back as possible. I usually have the coils touching the back of my neck when I wrap it by the loose ends around my body. This sets the rope firmly on my back and prevents it from flapping low around my knees behind me.
  • This “rucksack” set-up is possible with a single Butterfly Coil too. Start coiling from one end of the rope and proceed to the other. It is a slower, but tangleless method.
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How to Lock Off Belay Device

7/10/2007

Locking off your belay device is handy when you need to free your hands while belaying or rappelling. The common way of doing it is by tying a mule knot. It has an advantage of untying quickly by simply pulling the rope when you wish to continue rappelling/belaying. Depending on what kind of belay device you use, it is tied in different ways.

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Hauling The Second: Counterbalanced Hoist

7/9/2007

Imagine that the climber following you can’t get past the crux. Or maybe he has fallen off a thin traverse and is now dangling in the air. You calmly advise your second to pull up the lovely prusik cords garnishing his harness and jug his way up the rope using friction knots. What, he doesn’t have any prusiks? And even if he had, he wouldn’t know to use them? Good luck, hauling his lard ass up is up to you then.
Don’t panic. Assisted hoist, or Z-pulley system should get your partner out of the trouble. However, my climbing instructor taught me a really easy hoisting system which will get your buddy out of the trouble with minimal effort: (more…)

8 Basic Knots for Rock Climbers

7/7/2007

Solid rock climbers should definitely be able to show more than these 8 basic knots. Nonetheless, these are the knots I use time and again and they are all one needs to know for free climbing.

  1. Figure-Eight Loop. Absolutely essential knot used for tying rope to your harness. Take time to make it neat, nicely set. Undoing the knot will be much easier.

    Figure-eight

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8 Basic Knots for Rock Climbers (for print)

7/7/2007

This is a printer-friendly version of the original post 8 Basic Knots for Rock Climbers.

Gurus of rope tricks among climbers can certainly show more than these 8 basic knots. However, these are the knots I use again and again and they are all I need to know for regular rock climbing.

  1. Figure-Eight Loop. This absolutely essential knot is a standard way of tying rope to your harness. Take time to make it neat, non-crisscrossed, as it eases untying dramatically.

    Figure-Eight knot (more…)