Memorial Weekend in Rumney
The long weekend called for climbing trip. After discarding the multipitch Cannon Mountain in New Hampshire due to the prospect of shabby weather, our choice fell on Rumney, coincidentally also in New Hampshire.
During our 3-day stay we visited 4 crags – The Parking Lot Wall, Jimmy Cliff, The 5.8 Crag and The Main Cliff. Each of them has something specific; shortish, easy and mediocre sport lines on the left side of the Parking Lot Wall are dominated by an ultra-popular A Week With Pete 5.2 juggy slab. Just around the corner, where the trail from the main parking lot meets the cliff are several more demanding routes: Juan Valdez 5.10b, a technical crux right at the beginning from a high ledge, followed by a couple of pumpy underclings toward a small chimney, and Espresso 5.10d, the well-chalked overhanging jug-hauling pumpfest to the left of Juan Valdez.
Jimmy Cliff, the most delightful crag I visited in Rumney so far, features incredible rock friction and several aesthetic, classical lines. Lonesone Dove 5.10a is one awesome arete, where, as the guidebook says, proper technique pays dividends. There are several places where I simply had to stop and start thinking about the next step. Although this route is pretty sustained in difficulty, with proper footwork, one can hardly get pumped on it. From the last bolt, there is an option to stay on the arete – step to the right and follow the white-chalked underclings leading to good holds (slightly exposed, interesting moves and definitely recommended), or escape to easier grounds on the left.
Just next to the Lonesone Dove is probably the best 5.8 line in the area, The Junco 5.8+. Pleasantly bolted, and nice variety of climbing techniques (friction, layback). Left side of this part of Jimmy Cliff has a hard-looking overhanging wall – Drilling for Dollars 5.8. It felt slightly harder than The Junco, but not much, and the holds were all there. Care is advisable when clipping the second bolt, as the failure would result in hitting the deck. If your forearms fail you, it’s possible to escape from the last bolt to the left onto the arete, to avoid the physically stimulating direct finish. The unknown chimney (5.6ish) in the middle of this section of the cliff is clean and good for practicing stemming technique. Hammond Organ 5.10d is another cool line, with a technical reachy crux (avoid using the arete on the left).
The left part of the cliff is a huge low angle slab with several bolted lines for beginners. Clip a Dee Doo Dah 5.3 is the best known, 2 pitches of delightful friction climbing, almost scrambling (there’s no lack of good holds if you are climbing in ice skates). The Baker River valley is spread bellow and as you get above the trees, take time to cherish the view as you chat with occasional free-solo climber on the belay stance.
We survived the last rainy night almost comfortably (poor Maria and James in their puddle-equipped tent). The next morning brought sunshine again, so we set off for the final climbing day. Our choice, the 5.8 Crag was ridiculously wet, but after we fought our way up The Terrace 5.8 and Snake Skin Slab 5.8, it dried out a bit. We sent Bolt and Run, an interesting 5.9 line with two small overhangs and nice big holds and started skulking around the occupied tens next to it. A guy, crusing up the Milksnake, mentioned some gorgeous 10b on the Main Cliff, a short walk away, so to avoid waiting for our turn, we hiked up there.
Unfortunately, Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication 5.10b (who makes up those names?) was also occupied, so we kinda attempted to get onto the ultra-classic Underdog 5.10a, which looked empty. Only, we failed utterly, because after a 3rd grade scrambling, as advised in the guide book in the getting-to-the-line-of-bolts part, and which turned out to be a rather adventurous bushwhacking, we found ourselves several routes off to the right, on top of what we identified as “shrubby ledges”, with Underdog, nor any dog for that matter, nowhere to be seen. Quick rappel from a fortunately placed eyebolt got us back to the ground, this time below the real Underdog. Also occupied, but right next to it, some mysterious 5.10b (Polly Purebred?) with an intimidating ceiling leading to a V slot of the Underdog. Uff, uff, as the most famous Native American hero Winnetou would say. Sending that, I was prohibited from starting climbing anything else, because presumably it was time to pack. Pity on us, because the Main Cliff is by far the most impressive crag (Waimea looks silly compared to it) in Rumney.
More pictures from Rumney…
